Mystery tool

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Dan in MI

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I did a little digging. Last night I just saw a fairly modern pipe holder. Today I found that this could be a long search.

Capturegreenfield.JPG
 

caryc

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Doesn't look like any rivet punch I've ever seen. Most of those have a hole to cut the rivet to correct length for head forming.

Or is the term a "rivet set"?

Bob Wright
Using a rivet set when fastening together 2, 3 or maybe 4 pieces of metal. You would give the end of the rivet a light smack to tighten it in the hole a bit, then you would place the hole over the rivet to drive all the pieces down on the rivet head before actually setting the rivet with a hammer or a gun.
 
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When grinding a precision taper, especially in the days before modern computer assisted CMM's, you would check the paper for correct included angle with a taper gage. You could lightly wipe on hi spot bluing (Prussian Blue) and see if it transfers evenly. If it make a blue ring at the bottom the taper angle is too large if a ring at the top the angle is too small. If correct you get an even transfer and if the finish is smooth enough the gage will almost lock into place. like a morse taper for tools. Once the angle is correct you can grind for size and the gage generally has two steps for min and max. You would want the gage to stop with the suface face between the two steps.

I believe that is a taper gage.


 

xtratoy

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When grinding a precision taper, especially in the days before modern computer assisted CMM's, you would check the paper for correct included angle with a taper gage. You could lightly wipe on hi spot bluing (Prussian Blue) and see if it transfers evenly. If it make a blue ring at the bottom the taper angle is too large if a ring at the top the angle is too small. If correct you get an even transfer and if the finish is smooth enough the gage will almost lock into place. like a morse taper for tools. Once the angle is correct you can grind for size and the gage generally has two steps for min and max. You would want the gage to stop with the suface face between the two steps.

I believe that is a taper gage.


That is highly likely a correct description of what this does. It looks like one in the picture.
 

Bob Wright

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Using a rivet set when fastening together 2, 3 or maybe 4 pieces of metal. You would give the end of the rivet a light smack to tighten it in the hole a bit, then you would place the hole over the rivet to drive all the pieces down on the rivet head before actually setting the rivet with a hammer or a gun.
I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.

Incidentally, up until recently, railroad bridges were to be fastened with rivets rather than bolts. The reason was that formn the head also increased the diameter of the rivet so it completely filled the hole. So, in theory, a 3/4" dia. rivet became 13/16" dia. after forming. Not sure this is still practiced today. been awhile since I was inteested in these things.

Bob Wright
 

caryc

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I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.

Incidentally, up until recently, railroad bridges were to be fastened with rivets rather than bolts. The reason was that formn the head also increased the diameter of the rivet so it completely filled the hole. So, in theory, a 3/4" dia. rivet became 13/16" dia. after forming. Not sure this is still practiced today. been awhile since I was inteested in these things.

Bob Wright
By your first sentance, I assume you were talking about a flush head rivet in the back, I wasn't. I was building airplanes not skyscrapers.
 
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The hole in the ends could be just center drilled to locate the bar for lathe turning it between centers and have nothing to do
with it's function. Agree it's some kind of "gauge" but still looks like too much angle for known tapers.
 
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I was taught, back in the last century, that when the plies were compressed, any part of the rivet that protruded was to be cut off. the thickness of the set determined the proper length of the protrusion for proper head forming.

Incidentally, up until recently, railroad bridges were to be fastened with rivets rather than bolts. The reason was that formn the head also increased the diameter of the rivet so it completely filled the hole. So, in theory, a 3/4" dia. rivet became 13/16" dia. after forming. Not sure this is still practiced today. been awhile since I was inteested in these things.

Bob Wright
I remember the Three Stooges playing Iron Workers.
 

Bob Wright

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I didn't see all sides, but if there is a hole at the end of the shaft it could be a plumb bob
Plumb bobs ususlly have a relatively sharp conicl point, this for exact centering over a benchmark.

Years ago I was going to survey a prospective job site with an engineer who was from India. Had to pack the plumb bob in checked luggage, too dangerous for carry-on.

Bob Wright
 

caryc

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Plumb bobs ususlly have a relatively sharp conicl point, this for exact centering over a benchmark.

Years ago I was going to survey a prospective job site with an engineer who was from India. Had to pack the plumb bob in checked luggage, too dangerous for carry-on.

Bob Wright
I wonder how many people have been killed with plumb bobs?
 
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Don't think so, what ever it is is designed to be hand held. If it was a lathe center it would most likely have a machined taper
to match a tailstock or machined round to be clamped in a chuck. The knurling is a "give away" that it's made to be held.
There may be nobody left at the company that even has a clue what/who it was for.
 
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