AFAIK the Mini-14 will shoot either round without issues. I use both in my Mini-14 Ranch Rifle including my own reloads (loaded to 5.56 spec with small base dies).
Here is my $.02, I like the older S&W revolvers, but the new ones do not compare to the pre-80's revolvers, Whereas Rugers have not declined in quality over the years (in my opinion).
Ruger (Harry H Sefried II) did their home work and built a better mousetrap in my opinion.
I did a write up on...
Just a few of my opinions for what they are worth
The .22LR kills more people than any other cartridge.
Shot placement is as important as caliber choice.
A handgun is designed to get you to a bigger gun or to safety.
Your brain is your most dangerous weapon, do not forget to use it.
modern gun steel is stronger than people think and doesn't need heat treating to make it tough, so exposure to heat may not affect its strength at all.
If the aluminum didn't melt, the springs are intact then the heat is not enough to do anything but damage finish.
I think part of the problem is the cost of putting on gun shows has gone interstellar price wise. Some gun shows are charging upwards of $100 for a single table. I could not make any profit selling my gun parts, gun stickers and gun t-shirts at that price. So they get less sellers, and the ones...
Two things, there is no way to prevent a section of a steel part from being blued in the tank except if there is a screw or washer against the metal.
Second, an easy way to tell if a gun has a factory finish or a is a reblue is by looking at the roll marks, roll marks are usually put on right...
I am with the old timers here, bluing is the way to go for steel and anodizing is the way to go for aluminum, just no comparison, with perhaps the one exception of color case hardening on steel.
Here is my model 29-3 .....you cannot tell me this would look better with cerakote or any other...