Fed up with Mixed Brass

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Joined
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I was reloading 38's today. I've been working down the box of 148 grain wadcutters I bought recently. Very happy with the wadcutters.

I do admit to picking up brass from the range. Most goes into a recycle bucket. Since I'm so cheap, I use the 38's etc. from the range pick up.

But! I'm really getting fed up with the mixed brands of various brass. Some are just a wee bit too long, some are just a wee bit too short. Some too fat, some too skinny. In other words, they all seem to be different.

What do ya'll do? I'm to the point of chucking all the 38's and buying some Starline brass. I use Starline in 41 and 45 Colt, it seems to be really good brass. And for 327, I use Federal. I bought a bunch of factory ammo and just reuse the brass. So it's all the same, and consistent.

38 seems to be the only problem brass I have.... I guess I just answered my own question, huh?

Ok, have a good day.
 

sixshot

Buckeye
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soda springs, idaho
Not too hard to separate brass by headstamp into 3-4 different coffee cans, etc. When you get enough of one brand load them up. That's what I do.

Dick
 

mikld

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I started reloading 38 Special in '69. When I started, nothing was mentioned about sorting brass or measuring case length of 38 Spec. brass. A few years later I did some comparisons; all same headstamp all the same length. Results; for my loads (mostly 158 gr LSWC) there wasn't enough difference, if any, between the "as is" brass and the sorted, trimmed brass. I have reloaded a few thousand since and got some very good loads with mixed brass. Maybe if I was an old Bullseye shooter (38 Spec. revolvers ruled the game) I could find reason to trim and sort my brass, but today the only time I sort brass for my revolvers is when I'm bored and want to hang out in the shop...

One of the best loads I got from my 4" 38 was a 150 gr. DEWC over some W231 in mixed untrimmed brass. I got a few sub 2" groups and several 2"-2 1/2" groups @ 50' (indoor range).
 
Joined
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I think I'm in the same camp as mikld, I notice the different lengths of 38 cases as I'm reloading. I use an RCBS turret press and when seating the bullets, some take slightly more pressure than other cases. I've gotten to the point, I can literally feel the difference between a Remington case and a Winchester case as I'm reloading.

But, I can't say I see the difference at the range in terms of accuracy.

Actually, in typing this just now, I will do some testing, I can sort the loaded cases and see if one brand is more accurate than others. Now that I think about it. I don't ever pay attention to the various brands when at the range.

I do use a note book to record which powders I'm using and how well they do or don't work, so it wouldn't be difficult to sort and record accuracy from different cases.

Hmmm.... things to think about. Thanks!
 

contender

Ruger Guru
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If accuracy is your concern,,,, then there are many variables to consider.
Virgin brass is almost always more accurate than brass that has been fired. Maybe only a very small amount,, due to the tension of the case to bullet fit,, but it is there. Generally,, serious accuracy is when you START your testing at 50 yds & go to longer distances.
But,, I can say that quite often,, one brand of brass can be "easier" to reload than another brand. Sorting by brand is not a bad idea.
 
Joined
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Midwest Illinois
The only time I load mixed brass is when loading 38's. My loads are for plinking, and never near max. That being said, I refuse to pick up brass on the range. All of my brass was bought new or from shooting factory loads. For all other calibers I sort my brass regardless if for plinking, hunting, or target. for hunting or target.
 
Joined
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You do know you can trim the various brass to the same length????
Revolvers don't care if the cases are a bit short so trim all to match the length of the shortest in the lot.
Thick and thin?? No problem as long as all chamber. A bulge at the base of the bullet is no problem.
For "just shooting", mixed brass is no real accuracy issue. If you want "match grade", use same headstamp brass preferably from the same production lot.
 

daveg.inkc

Hunter
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I have noticed Hornady brass feels different resizing from other brands. Nice thing about straight wall brass, no stretch, no trim, no fooling!
 

Clovishound

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Summerville SC
I shoot only mixed headstamp, range scrounged brass in .38.

Yes, I notice they crimp in different places in the canelure. All crimp somewhere in the canelure. All load and shoot just fine. If it were an issue for me, I would get a trimmer for .38 and trim them all to the same length.

After going through the sizing die, they are all the same external diameter.
 
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I've found out back in the late 1980's not to mix brass when reloading no matter if it's 32,38,357,380,9MM,10MM 41 Rem Mag, 45 Colt, 223 Rem, 243 Win,7MM Rem Mag, 308 Win,7.62x39, 8x57JS. Mixing headstamps is a variable, when hand loading the less variable's the better. Different manufacturer's means different powder capacity, which effects the pressure, velocity, grouping.
 

GP100man

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Sep 13, 2006
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Lets back up a bit !

What problems are you having??

Seating problem ???

Accuracy problem???

Chambering problems???

I used to trim everything ! reason was the inconsistent roll crimp was causing #1 chambering problems on long cases.
#2 wide SDs over the chrony ultimately affecting accuracy & while I`m no bullseye shooter I wanted to remove as much inconsistency as possible ,so at the time left me to trimming cases .

Now the low to medium powered 38/357 I shoot for plinking with wadcutters or swc boolits I taper crimp & roll with it SDs are at a more acceptable level , grouping still sucks ,getting old & eyes going fast .

GP100man
 
Joined
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I hate you alls blurry pictures! :evil: WHY??? Then you have the audacity to complain of your eyes going bad! Sheesh! I shoot mixed head stamped reloads. I really dislike having 10 more cartridges to shoot to be able to reload 50. So I just add however many cases are needled regardless of the head stamp.
gramps
 

Dan in MI

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hard nose street cop said:
I've found out back in the late 1980's not to mix brass when reloading no matter if it's 32,38,357,380,9MM,10MM 41 Rem Mag, 45 Colt, 223 Rem, 243 Win,7MM Rem Mag, 308 Win,7.62x39, 8x57JS. Mixing headstamps is a variable, when hand loading the less variable's the better. Different manufacturer's means different powder capacity, which effects the pressure, velocity, grouping.

I learned this within weeks of starting to reload in the early 80's. I started with 44 mag not 38's. I noticed immediately that what worked on rams one week was woefully short the next week. I weighed my cases, I only had two brands. Brand X was much heavier than brand Y. If all else is the same then it has to be an internal difference. The internal difference (volume) changes the pressure curve. Once I separated my brands I generated sight settings for each brand until I tossed band Y.
 
Joined
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Dan in MI said:
hard nose street cop said:
I've found out back in the late 1980's not to mix brass when reloading no matter if it's 32,38,357,380,9MM,10MM 41 Rem Mag, 45 Colt, 223 Rem, 243 Win,7MM Rem Mag, 308 Win,7.62x39, 8x57JS. Mixing headstamps is a variable, when hand loading the less variable's the better. Different manufacturer's means different powder capacity, which effects the pressure, velocity, grouping.

I learned this within weeks of starting to reload in the early 80's. I started with 44 mag not 38's. I noticed immediately that what worked on rams one week was woefully short the next week. I weighed my cases, I only had two brands. Brand X was much heavier than brand Y. If all else is the same then it has to be an internal difference. The internal difference (volume) changes the pressure curve. Once I separated my brands I generated sight settings for each brand until I tossed band Y.

Now I haven't weighted my brass, but I developed my loads by headstamps then evaluate according to the performance
 
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