Tips on taking great gun pictures!

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PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
It took me a long while to learn and develop these techniques, and they may prove useful for you, too. Hope these tips help.

First, use a tripod. If you are using a digital SLR, and it has automatic image stabilization, turn it off. Your tripod will stabilize the camera, and the camera's attempt to stabilize the image sensor will just make it worse, introducing some unwanted fuzziness.

Lose the "haze filter" or any other protective glass in front of the lens. Use a lens shade. These things will help to ensure clarity and unwanted light reflection in the lens.

For utmost clarity, prime (fixed power) lenses usually work best because they have fewer internal elements. In spite of that, most medium-range or kit zoom lenses work pretty well and are more convenient. One problem I've found with the zooms is that when you work at the maximum wide angle setting (which is 18mm, or about 27mm in 35mm terms on mine), you may get some noticeable barrel distortion. I have an 18-55mm zoom range on my Pentax, and I find it best to use 35mm or better to alleviate this problem. Your lens may vary from this, but look for any distortion at the lower mm settings.

Use a cable release or set your camera to trigger with a 2-second delay. This absolutely minimizes camera shake from either your finger or the flip-up of the internal focusing mirror.

Forget automatic focusing. Look carefully through the viewfinder and focus manually; be sure the things you want to be sharp are indeed focused on.

Do NOT just look at the review image on the back of the camera to decide if the picture is exposed correctly. Your ambient light level will vary your perception of the image. Bring up the exposure histogram, and be sure all the peaks are within the two extreme limits, not cut off, and not way over to one side, unless a lot of your picture is either pure white or black.

Expose manually, controlling both the aperture and the length of exposure. Use a tight aperture; I use F/8 or better. F/8 is usually about right, giving you enough depth of field to be sure the entire gun is well in focus. Going down to F/12 or F/16 or even F/32 gains you nothing, and you may get chromatic aberration around the edges of what you are shooting. A high contrast background is no problem with manual exposure. Once you have the aperture setting, vary your length of exposure up or down until your histogram shows you have it right. With a digital camera, this costs you nothing, and you can delete any pictures that are not perfect. Select incremental settings of 1/3 stop, not 1/2. This gives you finer control when you are shooting for perfect instead of just good enough. Your object should be in perfect focus, exposed enough to show detail in the dark areas, with no warning "blinkies" in the light or dark areas, indicating no detail in the pure white areas or pure black areas. Since you are using a tripod, longer exposure is possible with no downside at all. By the way, if you use completely manual exposure control, light cannot creep in through the viewfinder and alter the setting of either the aperture or shutter speed!

Select ISO 100 for absolute minimum "noise" or grain in the picture. Use the maximum picture size and quality possible with your camera.

As for lighting, you want soft shadows. You can achieve this easily by shooting in the shade, or on a cloudy day. This is diffused, not harsh lighting. My best shade is achieved in the morning or late afternoon when the sun is off to the side, casting longer shadows with the shading object (such as a tree or building) off to the side so there is lots of overhead light from the sky.

Pay careful attention to your white balance. You don't want a yellow or a bluish cast to your picture. Your camera should allow you to select a custom setting, or generic "shade" setting.

With long gun shots, you may find it impossible or difficult to position the tripod and camera directly over the gun. If so, you can tilt the gun slightly towards the camera to correct this. I find that a glob of children's modeling clay works well behind the gun. You can shape it so it doesn't show, and it doesn't slip. If it wasn't invented for this purpose, it should have been!

If your camera allows you to shoot in "RAW" format, I recommend it. I prefer the DNG standard, as most processing software can accept it. I personally use Photoshop Elements 10 to "develop" the RAW image and convert it to JPG format. What the RAW format gets you is greater control over such factors as clarity, saturation, exposure, white balance, and bringing out details in the light or dark areas of the picture. This is at least 300% better for adjustment in post-processing than working with just a JPG image. Shooting the picture is only 1/2 of the secret to good pictures. The other 1/2 is in doing a skillful job of post-processing. Working with RAW images sounds like more trouble, but it's worth it to turn "good" into "perfect." I have recently been using both Pentax K-5 and K-3 cameras. Both allow you to save a RAW image with a button push concurrently with the last shot JPG image if you haven't turned the camera off. You can take a number of shots, and those that look good in JPG can also be saved in RAW format for enhanced processing capabilities. Most modern DSLRs can be set to take both JPG and RAW images concurrently, or to shoot only in RAW format. Don't be afraid of RAW images - take the plunge and take advantage of their versatility in processing.

Use your post-processing software to level and crop your picture. Leave plenty of space around the object being photographed; don't crop too tightly. The object for me is to allow one to imagine enough space around the gun to pick it up; this makes it more realistic. I use either Photodex's CompuPic, or PhotoShop Elements 10. Unwanted/distracting elements in a picture can often be erased or cloned away to make a better picture using Photoshop.

This picture of an old model Ruger Blackhawk was taken and processed using the techniques I have described:

RUGER_357_BLACKHAWK_zps376f3ca5.jpg


By taking advantage of RAW processing, you can handle tricky lighting situations such as this one, taken in spotty shade to give a more realistic sense of a classic Colt M1911 pistol of WWI vintage:

1911_WALLPAPER-1280_zps1214d703.jpg


Here's a sample picture of a nickeled Colt Python. Notice that there are plenty of details in the light and dark areas, good focus, and no problem with the contrast of the white background. The shadows are soft from the diffused lighting, done in the shade outdoors.

PYTHON2.jpg


Here's a shot of the new Ruger Mark IV target:

RUGER_MARK_IV--1280_zpsvzgb7t4n.jpg


Here's a shot of a longer gun, an 1855 Rifle Musket, almost 60 inches in length; same techniques, including the use of modeling clay to tilt the gun towards the camera.

1855.jpg


The white background material in most of these sample shots is cheap white countertop board, purchased from Home Depot. I use a longer sheet for rifles, and a smaller one for handguns.

I find that often, period advertisements or instruction sheets make for great backgrounds, and give a lot of authenticity to your subject. Here's an early 1957 "flat gate" Single-six as an example.

SINGLE_6-1-SMALL.jpg


I write the "Classic Guns" articles for Dillon's Blue Press catalog/magazine; they invariably use the photos I provide, which they think are as good or better than those they photograph in their studio. BTW, a subscription to that monthly is free, and can be ordered by calling 1-800-223-4570 and requesting it. You can also view past issues on line at Dillonprecision.com and then clicking on "Read the Blue Press" in the upper right of the opening page. My articles can usually be found by going to page 40 of whatever month you select, if you can get past the pretty gals on the covers!

As a final note, my first book, "101 Classic Firearms" has been printed and is available at dillonprecision.com. A number of Ruger firearms and thumbnail biography on Bill Ruger are included.

Good luck!

John
 

PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
chaneyd":3mn7ru72 said:
What suggestions for Digital SLR cameras?

Thanks.

The tips I wrote all apply to digital SLRs. I use a Pentax K200D; most digital SLRs will allow the adjustments I mention.
 

Hawkencougar2

Bearcat
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
29
With a really shiny gun (mirror image) how do you keep camera reflection and background reflection off the gun? Are you using a tent?

Totally agree with you on tripod and lowest ISO possible with good diffuse lighting.
 

PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
Hawkencougar2":3t4l9yq5 said:
With a really shiny gun (mirror image) how do you keep camera reflection and background reflection off the gun? Are you using a tent?

Totally agree with you on tripod and lowest ISO possible with good diffuse lighting.

With a nickeled or highly-polished stainless gun, I wait for a cloudy day and shoot in the open from a slight angle with the sun to the side or in front of me. This avoids reflections of the camera, tripod, or nearby shade provider such as a house or tree. Following the shot, I check the screen, and make adjustments in angle as necessary if I see reflections. The sample shots of the Colt Python and the Ruger Vaquero were done in this manner.

Sometimes, like here in Arizona, a cloudy day just doesn't happen that often. If so, shoot in the early morning or late afternoon in the shade, but still have plenty of open sky overhead to give a feature-free reflective surface.

Hope this helps.

John
 

PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
APEXDUCK":3bo9ce95 said:
Paladin8520,

Good tips! Thanks for posting. Nice to see someone else out there using a Pentax. I have been using a K110D and just received my new K-7 today. Love that I can use all my old classic 35mm lenses with the new Digital SLR Pentax cameras.

APEXDUCK

Thanks for your comments! I've been using Pentax SLRs since I bought a K1000 35mm back in the 1980s. I got a K100D in 2007, and the K200D not too long thereafter. Like you, I appreciate being able to use all my older lenses. I also like that the K200D uses Lithium AA batteries as a power source; no need to worry about recharging batteries - just keep spares handy for when you run out of juice. I've been looking at the K7; does it also use AA batteries? I understand it comes with the kit 18-55mm lens only; if I get one, I'd just want the camera body, having all the lenses I need now.

John
 

APEXDUCK

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jul 23, 2008
Messages
180
PALADIN85020,

K-7 is available without the kit lens but the new WR version of the lens is far superior to the prior 18-55mm kit lens. The K-7 uses the Pentax rechargeable batteries but I have been very pleased with the performance of the batteries. I have the added grip that supports either a second rechargeable or AA batteries. I have found that having the pair of rechargeable batteries in the camera I can shoot for days. Literally thousands of pictures without recharging. The camera comes with one and a recharger. I purchased 2 extra and have yet to need the 3rd when out taking pictures.

I'm finding a need for a better 50-200mm zoom. The kit lens I got with my K110D is just not cutting it. Pentax makes a 55-300 (around $500) and a 60-250 ($$ = $1500) but I can not find a local dealer. Just need a bit more quality and focal length for kids soccer pictures.

APEXDUCK
 

PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
APEXDUCK":s08yw4df said:
PALADIN85020,

K-7 is available without the kit lens but the new WR version of the lens is far superior to the prior 18-55mm kit lens. The K-7 uses the Pentax rechargeable batteries but I have been very pleased with the performance of the batteries. I have the added grip that supports either a second rechargeable or AA batteries. I have found that having the pair of rechargeable batteries in the camera I can shoot for days. Literally thousands of pictures without recharging. The camera comes with one and a recharger. I purchased 2 extra and have yet to need the 3rd when out taking pictures.

I'm finding a need for a better 50-200mm zoom. The kit lens I got with my K110D is just not cutting it. Pentax makes a 55-300 (around $500) and a 60-250 ($$ = $1500) but I can not find a local dealer. Just need a bit more quality and focal length for kids soccer pictures.

APEXDUCK

Thanks for the added info - much appreciated. My K200D has the more recent 18-55WR lens. I really prefer being able to get AA batteries anywhere, and the Lithium types seem to last forever. I just toss a couple of packages of spares in my kit and I'm good to go for a long time, with batteries available everywhere if needed.

I also felt the need for a good zoom telephoto, and finally sprung for the Pentax 18-250mm. When I'm just carrying the camera minus all the extra gear, it's my go-to lens that will cover me for just about anything without having to change lenses. On the downside, it's relatively heavy, and has to be locked up in the 18mm position when carrying so the elements don't slide forward of their own weight. This is a minor nuisance, and the lock is easy to set and unset. This lens would be the equivalent of 27 - 375 mm in 35 mm film terms, quite a zoom spread.

Although the K200D only gets 10 megapixels, I find it's plenty sufficient for pretty large blowups, particularly at 100-200 ISO. It's a big improvement over the 6 MP K100D I had prior. I like its dust removal feature and the fact that it's well sealed. I may stick with it a while. I don't need the movie mode, as I have a little Canon point and shoot that does a good job of that.

Again, thanks for additional info on the K7.

John
 

cubrock

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
835
Location
NC
I use plain white posterboard in my lightbox. Cheap and each sheet has a shiny and matte side, both of which can be useful. Also, being flexible, you can use it to get an infinity background, which can be a cool effect.

I hadn't thought of using melamine for outdoor shots. Gonna have to try that. Melamine would also clean easily. Posterboard doesn't, so you have to replace it now and again as gun oils, etc. stains it.
 

PALADIN85020

Bearcat
Joined
Oct 30, 2007
Messages
74
Location
Arizona
Since I first posted these tips, I've upgraded to a new Pentax K-5, which is a more professional-level camera. It takes 16 megapixel pictures, allowing for much larger enlargements with plenty of detail. I now shoot in the RAW format rather than JPEG, which gives me more latitude in adjusting the parameters of a picture through post-processing. I'm now using Photoshop Elements 10. One can adjust color balance, saturation, orientation, etc. with ease, and then save the picture in a conversion from RAW to JPG. Here's a sample shot of a WWII Walther P.38:
John

P38-NAT_LIGHT-1280_zps735bf8c1.jpg
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,810
Location
Woodbury, Tn
So how about those of us with the 100 dollar digitals? There aren't the same settings like Iso? Mine come out fuzzy, whether I use my iPhone or Polaroid digital?
gramps
 

cubrock

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
835
Location
NC
gramps said:
So how about those of us with the 100 dollar digitals? There aren't the same settings like Iso? Mine come out fuzzy, whether I use my iPhone or Polaroid digital?
gramps

You can take some rocking pictures with a $100 digital camera. A whole lot of it comes down to lighting and using a tripod.
 

cubrock

Blackhawk
Joined
Mar 16, 2005
Messages
835
Location
NC
CraigC said:
Hmmmm, no tripod, haze filter and auto-focus.....I guess I'm doing it wrong. :p

IMG_8074b.jpg


Outdoor lighting makes the tripod unnecessary in most cases.
 

O2HeN2

Bearcat
Joined
Nov 18, 2014
Messages
23
Location
Colorado Springs, CO, USA
PALADIN85020 said:
Forget automatic focusing. Look carefully through the viewfinder and focus manually; be sure the things you want to be sharp are indeed focused on.
I would add:

If your camera has "liveview" (display the real-time image on the screen) use it instead of the viewfinder, since liveview is an image that is taken off the sensor that is used for the picture itself. If you have the ability to magnify a section of the liveview, do so in order to make your focus even more accurate.

O2
 

Spleenless Dave

Single-Sixer
Joined
Jan 3, 2017
Messages
133
Location
Kansas City, Missouri
PALADIN85020 said:
I'm bumping this thread to the top to bring your attention to updates to the original post on taking pictures. I hope you'll find the additional information useful.

John

I'm glad you did, the info is great and very helpful and I hadn't seen this thread yet. Thanks!

I have set things out on the aged wood of the apartment deck to get pics late in the day, and guns especially look good on the wood. In a pinch, I've used the light wood of the bedside tables in my bedroom as a background for small items, and took this one with just the light of the LED side table lamp with my Nikon digital on the auto setting.

413035157.jpg


Here's one taken recently on the deck wood. I just wish I couldn't see the ladies flowers and furniture below through the cracks. :lol: I guess I could take them in to Photoshop and fill them in black.

413057120.jpg
 

OM SB

Bearcat
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Messages
32
Location
Indiana
How about some tips on how to post pics on the forum? My computer savy son was just here and we worked for at least an hour trying to figure out how to do it. Created a Flickr account and put some photos from my computer onto the flicker account, but we cannot get them to show up on a forum post.
 

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