Rugged Muzzle brake timing

[BadMatrix]

there aren't many instructions with this .223 brake/adapter. Comes with some thin washers.

How precise does this have to be to avoid a strike?

 

[NikA]

Timing on these is a cosmetic/brake function issue, nothing to do with baffle strikes. To avoid baffle strikes need to check bore is inline with the suppressor as mounted; can use Mk 1 eyeball or a very straight rod (drill rod, injection molding ejector, suppressor check rod, etc.).

 

[Yoter]

If in doubt, check with a straight tight piece of drill rod in the bore. Check that it is centered in the suppressor.

 

[Mobuck]

This is why I don't care for the muzzle devices that require 'timing'. Those 'some thing' (assume you mean some thin) washers are 'timing shims' and as already stated, are for 'clocking' the ports of the device. Assuming you have a decent quality barrel, the 'shoulder' at the rear of the threads is supposed to be perfectly square to the bore as are the threads. When the suppressor mount is tightened against this shoulder, it provides a solid interface that supports the suppressor (in addition to the threads). Adding shims can get out of hand and lead to mis-alignment quickly.
One thing to pay strict attention to is the area at the rear of your barrel's threading. IMHO there should be a slightly recessed cut at this point but some barrel threads end in a radius instead. Many times the muzzle adaptor and/or shims will contact the radius cut before abutting the actual barrel shoulder. This can and will cause problems and requires some careful fitting to overcome.
DO NOT USE A CRUSH WASHER under any circumstance as they may not provide a truly square interface when 'crushed'.

 

[BadMatrix]

Thank you all for responding. This is a headache…i tried different combinations of the shims hoping to leave brake on the other side of perpendicular and by torquing, it would time. i torqued this down to 20 pounds and didnt go to 25, i didnt want to go further to the right as in the picture.

 

[gunzo]

If that's 28 TPI or even 24, a .002-.003" shim should get the break very close to 12 o'clock or straight up.

A couple extra foot pounds of torque more or less to get it aligned better shouldn't hurt a thing. If the brake comes loose, a .001" thicker shim could be added & a few more foot pounds applied.

 

[NikA]

Can't tell from picture, how far off the timing position you want are you without shims? I've got some muzzle devices that came with shims and a guide as to how much to shim to adjust timing.

I never rely on torque alone to hold these on, I add green or red loctite as well so they need to be heated to come off.

 

[Mobuck]

Can we assume that if the crow foot wrench was straight up, the device would be aligned? If so, the device is close enough as mounted in the pic.
That small amount out of line makes no difference except aesthetic. If it was 15-20*, that would be objectionable.

 

[BadMatrix]

Can we assume that if the crow foot wrench was straight up, the device would be aligned? If so, the device is close enough as mounted in the pic.
That small amount out of line makes no difference except aesthetic. If it was 15-20*, that would be objectionable.

Thank you! This is what Rugged just wrote to me and said. I appreciate your response!