Removing muzzle device of New GenII American

Heat will not help thread lockers like Rocksett if that or something similar is what was used. Why would you use a locker that loosens up with heat? Shooting enough rounds would heat up the barrel enough to loose the threads. Makes no sense. Water is what reacts with it and it doesn't need to be boiling. Just soak it in tap water to loosen it. I had a stubborn one that took a 2 day soak before it let loose.

It cost $68 to remove this ridiculous muzzle device. The smith said the setup time is what cost so much, special collets and tools and expertise that I do not have...

And before We hear the shoulda, woulda, couldas, there should NOT be so much adhesive gooped on at the factory that the average shmoe cannot remove it without resorting to "home remedies". Uggggg.

Having removed things like this before, I highly doubt "special" collets were required. Just think, if you had bought the correct size ER collet and a cheap collet block, you could have done this yourself and you would have had the tools to do it the next time!

Should've been able to do this with a solidly mounted quality vise with soft jaws and heat and/or water. Regardless of adhesive.

NikA said:

Having removed things like this before, I highly doubt "special" collets were required. Just think, if you had bought the correct size ER collet and a cheap collet block, you could have done this yourself and you would have had the tools to do it the next time!

Should've been able to do this with a solidly mounted quality vise with soft jaws and heat and/or water. Regardless of adhesive.

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I tried all the things you mentioned for sure, even removing the action and placing into a vice, with a little heat from a heat gun. It was on there. thanks for responding.

BadMatrix said:

says you...thanks for responding.

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Why ask the question if you're not willing to learn from the responses?

To summarize:
-strap wrenches are never the right tool for this. If you must use a hand tool on a small smooth shaft, vise grips with appropriately padded jaws. Significant risk to finish if you're not careful
-workholding is key; padded vise is good, actual barrel vise or collet setup for holding shafts is better
-heat is almost always necessary if adhesive was applied properly, even with medium strength "blue" thread locker

I heard back from Ruger and I am quite surprised. 25 inch pounds is about 2 ft/pounds and there certainly was much much more on it:

We do apologize for the inconvenience, the muzzle brakes are torqued to 20-30in lbs., we do not use any Loctite or adhesive when installing our muzzle brakes. We have forwarded your feedback to our production team to help make them aware of your issue.

Thank you,

Ruger Customer Service

Wow, no thread locker and 30 inch/pounds? A strong golfer might pop that off by hand.
Must have lubed it with salty water when they installed it.

MHtractorguy said:

Wow, no thread locker and 30 inch/pounds? A strong golfer might pop that off by hand.
Must have lubed it with salty water when they installed it.

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Ye, I find that impossible to believe. I couldn't remove it.

Maybe yours has left hand threads