Synthetic or traditional oil in my new compressor?

[Tallbald]

I pick up a "Big Bore" Makita MAC700 small compressor tomorrow. Oil lubed pump. Owner manual says to run 20 minutes without load to break it in. But I don't see where it says to change oil in the new pump motor after that. Decided that I will indeed change it with fresh oil. Home Depot has full synthetic compressor oil and regular compressor oil both with only a couple bucks difference in the two. Husky brand both.
Manual doesn't reference whether synthetic or regular matters. Just talks about viscosity.
So friends any suggestions about maybe going full synthetic?
Oh. Unrelated here. I learned from a smaller, quiet compressor I had ordered that that compressor is NOT (with a caution boldface font) to be used below 32 degrees F nor above 104 degrees F. That one quickly went back to Amazon as here in KY we have temps well below 32 and on rare occasion a few degrees above 104 degrees F at seasonal times. Thus changing my choice to oil lubed.
Thanks all. Don.

 

[Enigma]

What does Makita recommend for oil? Personally, that's what I would use.

 

[Fox Mike]

Personally I prefer to use synthetic in anything I can. Having worked on turbine engines in helicopters and have seen how the synthetic functions there I am sold on it's use. It can be obtained in any viscosity that the petroleum oil can so that is not a problem.

 

[Captain America]

What does Makita recommend for oil? Personally, that's what I would use.

I'm in this camp.

 

[Mobuck]

synthetic will offer better lubing performance in very cold and very hot temps. My big compressor sits in an unheated open front shop and even though I'm conservative about running it in cold weather when I need air, I need air and the compressor has to run. Synthetic moves much quicker/easier in cold so that's what I use.

 

[Tallbald]

I think I commented in the post that the manual doesn't reference synthetic or conventional. Just talks viscosity for a temp range. I just want this compressor to last as well as the 2000 cast iron twin Campbell Hausfeld I downsized from. But it was too big for my downsized shop Like driving a dump truck to the Krogers Grocery for a loaf of bread...
Synthetic wouldn't hurt the new compressor would it?
Don

 

[blume357]

I'm by far from an expert, but from what I've heard synthetic is better... Seems practical if it's just a few dollars more.

 

[Mobuck]

If one studies how engines/compressors w/o filtration work, it will be enlightening. Now, I still use high quality synthetic 0W40 in my 220V shop compressor. The trailer mounted take-along has synthetic in the HONDA engine and the compressor came with some sort of special oil that I've changed (inadvertently, I'll add due to it laying over on it's side in the back of the pickup and all the oil draining out of the vent tube)using what was described on the container as 'synthetic for compressor use' multi-vis oil.

 

[Dave P.]

With the manual not being specific I'd go with a synthetic.
Not sure it would make much difference but I don't see how it could
hurt anything.
Dave

 

[Rick Courtright]

What does Makita recommend for oil? Personally, that's what I would use.

Hi,

Makita sells their own branded compressor oil. Nowhere in the description did I see "synthetic" so I assume it's a conventional oil.

While surfing, I found a website for Quincy compressors. New to me, they've been around since the 1930s, and make everything from a "home use" portable to 500 hp stuff to run big industrial equipment. They have both conventional and synthetic oil available, and make it look like your choice should depend on use. Fire up the machine like I do the little oilless pancake in the garage, maybe a couple of times a month, and conventional should be just fine. Run the machine constantly like your friendly neighborhood tire shoppe might do, and synthetic will be the better choice. They seemed more concerned with proper viscosity, and changing the oil at least once a year, whether conventional or synthetic.

Rick C

 

[Fox Mike]

I have found that many times that different manufacturers quote a "special type" oil using their nomenclature when it is actually an over the counter type of lube. You buy from them and pay a higher price. A case in point; Isuzu stated that the transaxle required a specific number 'special lubricant'. After some serious research it was found to be 10 weight oil. ANY 10 weight would work just fine...and cost about 1/2 what Isuzu wanted for it.

 

[RSIno1]

DO NOT start with synthetic. The rings will never seat. Run it on conventional oil for about 20-50 hours then go to synthetic.

 

[Fox Mike]

DO NOT start with synthetic. The rings will never seat. Run it on conventional oil for about 20-50 hours then go to synthetic.

And you base this statement on what? Do you have a link explaining why 30 weight synthetic acts differently than 30 weight petroleum oil on a new engine? I ask because Aston Martin, Bugatti, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Corvette, Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, and Nissan all come from the factory using Mobil 1.

 

[Rick Courtright]

DO NOT start with synthetic. The rings will never seat. Run it on conventional oil for about 20-50 hours then go to synthetic.

HI,

Old automotive "truisms"--which frequently aren't today--die slowly. I think Mobil1 has spent a quarter century or so debunking that. How many cars come from the factory with Mobil1 these days? How do they get their rings seated?

Rick C

 

[Uncle Howie]

DO NOT start with synthetic. The rings will never seat. Run it on conventional oil for about 20-50 hours then go to synthetic.

HI,

Old automotive "truisms"--which frequently aren't today--die slowly. I think Mobil1 has spent a quarter century or so debunking that. How many cars come from the factory with Mobil1 these days? How do they get their rings seated?

Rick C

I'm personally in the "conventional for break-in, then synthetic" camp, though Fox Mike and Rick Courtright definitely have a valid point!

Another thought- there aren't any concerns about combustion blow-by (as in a gas engine), so it might be basically an academic question.

Just by thinking/asking about it, you show that you're more conscientious than about 90% (or more!) users.

:idea: Put in whatever oil makes you feel good, and enjoy that new compressor for many years to come!

 

[Wyandot Jim]

I have a 5HP Black Max from Home Depot that is 31 years old. In that 31 years it has run more than the average person would ever use a compressor for in a life time. I do a lot of painting of airplanes, cars, and running air tools along with general use. By the way this is not a continuous duty comp. but it works like one at times.
It still has the same oil in it the it came with from the factory. It is still clean and I have never added any. Yes I do check it but if a comp. uses oil it will get in to the air supply which is not good. :wink: My guess is it is NOT synthetic.

 

[Fox Mike]

The major difference is: Synthetic oil molecules are more uniform in shape with fewer impurities and better properties than conventional oil molecules. In general, synthetic oil has better extreme high temperature and low temperature performance. Synthetic oils are generally formulated with higher performing additives

 

[wiz1997]

Not going to recommend either type oil oil, because they will both work.

What I do suggest is, determine what type of oil is in the compressor BEFORE you do anything.

If you find out it has "conventional" and you want synthetic, or if it has synthetic and you want conventional, you must flush every bit of the existing oil out of the compressor.

When we bought our two newest compressor, about the size of a small car each, they came with synthetic oil.
The older three used a conventional compressor oil.
We didn't want to have two different types of oil on site to prevent someone mixing the two up and damaging a compressor.

The existing oil must be flushed out when changing types.

To convert the old units to synthetic we had to drain the oil, remove and replace the filter with a new one, and the fill the oil tank 1/2 full of the synthetic oil. (3 gallons of oil)
Run the air compressor long enough for it to get hot. (20 minutes?)
Then drain that oil out, remove and replace the filter, and fill the compressor with new synthetic oil to the proper level.
Ready to put in service.

It was an expensive conversion, a gallon of the synthetic was about $45.00 per gallon, 9×45=$405
plus the three filters.
That was just the flush job.
All that oil and filter were now contaminated and could not be used.

Then 6 gallons per compressor (3), and 3 new filters.

I would definitely check with the manufacturer to see what oil is required to maintain the warrenty.

 

[Rick Courtright]

If you find out it has "conventional" and you want synthetic, or if it has synthetic and you want conventional, you must flush every bit of the existing oil out of the compressor.

Hi,

Did they give any explanation of why the two had to be flushed?

I realize that, yes, there are interactions with certain fluids so they can't be mixed, but for automotive use, draining one kind of oil and replacing with the other is no big deal. And, frankly, automotive oil is doing a lot more than compressor oil--see Wyandot Jim's report of 31 yrs of service on his compressor's original fill. No auto can match that!

So is there something special going on here with this particular mfr and the oil they use, so I can tell the BS detector it was a false alarm?

Rick C

 

[wiz1997]

If you find out it has "conventional" and you want synthetic, or if it has synthetic and you want conventional, you must flush every bit of the existing oil out of the compressor.

Hi,

Did they give any explanation of why the two had to be flushed?

I realize that, yes, there are interactions with certain fluids so they can't be mixed, but for automotive use, draining one kind of oil and replacing with the other is no big deal. And, frankly, automotive oil is doing a lot more than compressor oil--see Wyandot Jim's report of 31 yrs of service on his compressor's original fill. No auto can match that!

So is there something special going on here with this particular mfr and the oil they use, so I can tell the BS detector it was a false alarm?

Rick C

Nic pic here, it was three compressors that we flushed.

We checked with the manufacturer of the three older compressors and that is what we were told to do in order to maintain the warranty and service agreement.

So that's what we did. Actually we had them do it, so there would be no question about it being done correctly.

BS? I don't know, I'm an Electrical Technician.