10/22 buffer

Has anyone replaced the steel bolt pin with a poly buffer type? Theres a youtube video, these cats replace the barrel clamp with a GRX? has a lug that is glass bedded in stock. Their heavy barrel 10/22 is shooting small groups to start with. I can see no improvement after they finish project. So, I was reading Brownells catalog and found these buffers. They work in my 1911, slide leaves a horseshoe mark. And I wore one out on my Mini 14.

I put synthetic buffers in all my 10-22's. My oldest one has the pin hole beat out into an egg shape and I found and oversized plastic buffer for it to tighten things up. Just my opinion but synthetic should be standard.

I have them in my 10/22's mostly because they quiet down some of the metallic sound when action is cycling. My first 10/22 has over 15,000 rounds fired and I replaced factory pin with a poly buffer pin after over 10,000, but there was no apparent damage to the aluminum receiver. I just replaced it when I started to replace them in my newer guns.

The steel works with the cut out on the back of the bolt to deflect the rear of the bolt down. This stops the rearward movement of the bolt in two steps. This spreads the impact out over time and reduces the forces adsorbed by the receiver. When the bot is kicked down, it has to hit the small ledge on the top of the trigger group, slowing the return of the bolt to battery.

The action is designed to run with the steel pin. If the bolt hitting the pin is too load you should be wearing hearing protection.

I redid my 10/22 with a fair amount over 30K rounds and saw zero problems.

I do wear hearing protection, Precision<< . I dont hear it, I have buffers in other auto loaders. And they absorb the shock

daveg.inkc said:

I do wear hearing protection, Precision<< . I dont hear it, I have buffers in other auto loaders. And they absorb the shock

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Try shooting an M1 Garand in 30-06. There is no buffer in it at all.

BUFFERS. The snake oil of the gun culture.

Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower :roll:

"BUFFERS. The snake oil of the gun culture. "
"Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower"

Maybe so/maybe no. I've spent far more for far less many times so if the things are worthless, at least they make me feel better.

Ol'Freak said:

Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower :roll:

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Not to mention that my gas mileage improved 100%. (The tank overflowed)
Actually, the buffer keeps the hole in the receiver from egging out from repeated hammering. I got a length of 1/4"Ø black nylon rod from McMaster-Carr and made a half-dozen of them.

FlyerTom said:

Ol'Freak said:

Swapping in a buffer should have your 10/22™ making at least ten more horsepower :roll:

Click to expand...

Not to mention that my gas mileage improved 100%. (The tank overflowed)
Actually, the buffer keeps the hole in the receiver from egging out from repeated hammering. I got a length of 1/4"Ø black nylon rod from McMaster-Carr and made a half-dozen of them.

Click to expand...

Got any close-ups of those egg shaped from the pounding bolt stop pin holes ?

I'd like to see a photo of a pounded out bolt stop myself.

My stock steel buffer was so loose that it rattled loudly when the rifle was moved side to side. The synthetic buffer remedied that rattling --- for what it's worth.

The best shooting 10-22 I own is so loose that every pin falls out when the action is out of the stock.

Hi,

Somehow methinks with the way Ruger's bean counters appeaar to work sleepless nights trying to figure out how to cheapen the production cost of their guns, customer be da(r)ned, there must be a really good reason they have NOT already gone to a synthetic buffer from the factory.

Rick C

A lot of the bean counting has turned into high quality parts being produced. Ruger spent a lot of money to produce cold-hammer-forged barrels for almost all their guns. Most 10/22s may not need a aftermarket barrel anymore because of that upgrade.

Instead of buying buffers, try replacing the recoil spring/charging handle assembly after about 5000 rounds, that spring doesn't last forever it gets weaker and the bolt slams into the bolt stop harder. But don't put in a stronger recoil spring than OEM because the bolt will come forward too fast. :lol:

rattlegun said:

Instead of buying buffers, try replacing the recoil spring/charging handle assembly after about 5000 rounds, that spring doesn't last forever it gets weaker and the bolt slams into the bolt stop harder. But don't put in a stronger recoil spring than OEM because the bolt will come forward too fast. :lol:

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Springs do not get weaker through use. When a spring fails it breaks, it does not get weaker. Look up "elastic solids" for yourself. When was the last time you changed the springs under your car or the valve springs in your engine?

Springs do wear out. Put couple hundred thousand miles on a Chevelle, any A-body. There are shims to place under valve springs to get proper tension on overhauls. Springs weaken, sag, wear out. There are little wedges that used to be sold to spreads coils apart on cars.

Kansas City Springs Works. I've had truck springs re-arched and replaced with new. Not a spring made that won't wear out at some point in it's life. Ever watched a progressive die run in a press? Ask any tool and die maker, springs under the stripper plates give out. Usually break, old car seats sagging,,