Blackhawk Locked-up

[mrjohns]

I have a problem with my Ruger 357 Blackhawk. I was just out shooting and the cylinder locked-up and wouldn't move. I can't pull the hammer back. I tried to remove the cylinder but it's stuck. I could use some help with this problem.

 

[NikA]

New model or old model? If it's a new model, shake it a bit to make sure that the transfer bar isn't caught on anything.
Can you pull the base pin all the way forward, or it is stuck as well?

 

[The Preacher]

First things first...is it still loaded?

The Preacher

 

[WIL TERRY]

NM ? Push the cylinder pin ALL the way till it locks in place.

And so it goes..

 

[Jimbo357mag]

First things first...is it still loaded?

The Preacher

If shooting light loads it might be that a primer has been pushed out and is binding the cylinder up. Remove the base pin and push the cylinder out.

 

[Chuck 100 yd]

All of the above are possible and avoidable with proper handling in a mechanically correct gun.
Another thing to check is the loading gate spring. It can jump off of its proper place at the loading gate cam and lock the cylinder up.

 

[mrjohns]

I was given reloads from a friend and on one of the loads he forgot to put powder in the case. I took a wooden dowel and tapped it in the barrel and was able to remove the cylinder. No more of my friends reloads for me. Thanks for all the help

 

[schloss]

You should count it a blessing that it just locked it up, and you didn't end up with a bullet stuck in the barrel unknowingly, and try to shoot it more. Glad you're safe.

I'm with you on this, though. I absolutely don't trust reloads from other people.

 

[NikA]

That was precisely my thinking, although I've heard said that the BH .357 is the strongest current commerical production .357, and I think that somewhere in the internet space there's a tale of a Ruger company strength test of a GP-100 with a bolt threaded into the barrel...

I wouldn't want to be holding it though.

ETA: Couldn't find GP-100 story, but here's a nice picture of a BH: http://s7.photobucket.com/user/dalesimpson/media/rugerblackhawk-tm.jpg.html

 

[Chief]

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

 

[Jimbo357mag]

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

A bullet stuck between the cylinder and the barrel is a real problem. You have to drive the bullet back into the case or cut the bullet in half.

 

[JLarsson]

I bought a used OM Super Blackhawk some years back from a friend. It came with reloading dies, cases and about 100 reloads. They seemed very powerful when I fired them, but having never fired a .44 Magnum before I had no real point of reference. On about the second cylinder, the revolver locked up. There was a strange sound from the gun, not your normal report. there was a bullet lodged between the cylinder and the barrel. I stopped shooting those rounds and went to the store and got a bullet puller....

A bullet stuck between the cylinder and the barrel is a real problem. You have to drive the bullet back into the case or cut the bullet in half.

How is this even possible?

 

[Jimbo357mag]

...a very tiny saw, like a feeler gauge. You could probably melt the lead with some heat. ...not that I have ever done that but I did hammer a bullet back into the case enough to get a stuck cylinder out.

 

[JLarsson]

...a very tiny saw, like a feeler gauge. You could probably melt the lead with some heat. ...not that I have ever done that but I did hammer a bullet back into the case enough to get a stuck cylinder out.

I could see melting a lead bullet as a last-ditch effort, but in my limited experience, if the bullet is caught between the cylinder and forcing cone, it takes very little force to tap it back into the cylinder far enough to remove the cylinder.

 

[Chief]

Correct. It took very little effort to push the bullet back into the cylinder/case, remove the cylinder and all was well. The most hazardous part was the fact that the gun still had 3 live rounds left in it. As you may have guessed the round in question had no powder. The primer was enough to push the bullet until it met the forcing cone. They were unknown brand 240 gr JHP with norma cases. I took down all of the rest of the rounds but did not fine any more without powder. There was some sort of flake (probably 2400) powder in them. Tossed it all and reloaded the cases with my own powder (2400) and reused the bullets. The old Super worked perfect after that. Sadly I traded that gun for a shiny, new 8 3/8 nickle S&W model 57. It's a nice gun and I love it but wish I had that Super back.

 

[J. Yuma]

new guy.
After buying .44 ammo @ $1.00 per round, I thought I'd try reloading. Started with a Lee Loader. Used the dipper that came with the kit.

After reading, and watching youtube videos about squib loads and explosions, I decided to weigh every charge on a digital grain scale.
Before I go to the range, I weigh every cartridge to make sure I at least have powder, and not a double charge.

I now load on a Lee single stage.
Discovered that cast bullets vary in weight. I'm mostly shooting 240 grain Elmer style swc.
Cases vary in weight too, Starline seems 10 grains heavier.

I've been shooting now for about 1 year. Started with a Glock 21 but decided that semi-autos burn ammo too fast. Looked into revolvers and bought a SAA Heritage.
Somehow discovered .44 magnum, now own a SBH, and a SRH.
I haven't got the hang of shooting double action so I shoot both SA. This old timey style slows down the action, not like burning through a clip with the Glock.

If I had to pick one, it would be tough. The SRH is easier to load, and has fewer itty bitty screws, etc. While I love the Super Redhawk, I absolutely love the Super Blackhawk. Makes me feel like Wyatt Earp

 

[Jon406]

I'm glad that worked out for you, my first thought was a squib or a backed out primer into the firing pin hole... but like others have said, glad that you are safe.

 

[contender]

First off, an 8 year old post & the problem got fixed. But still good advice.

J. Yuma,, WELCOME TO THE FORUM!!!!!!!!

I see you are from NC. Anywhere near me in WNC? If you need more help in reloading or shooting or trying stuff, you are welcomed to visit! And each fall, we have a "Ruger Forum East Coast Gathering" here at my place! All are welcome to come & enjoy shooting, fellowship, and a bit of food!

 

[J. Yuma]

thanks for the welcome!
I'm in the triangle, and a Duke football fan!
Been to Lake Lure a couple of times.

Had my SBH lock up yesterday at the range. I just got it back from Ruger yesterday. Somehow a grip frame screw broke so that the stub was below the frame surface. I tried to remove it with a reverse twist drill bit, but it was like operating on a grandchild.

Ruger returned it yesterday all fixed up. Shot 12 rounds of semi-hot home made, it seemed fine.
Started to load a third and the cylinder stopped turning after 3-4 bullets. I removed the cylinder several times, then after loading and shooting three at a time, I gave up.

The base pin latch had always been a pita (bought the gun used last August). Now it was stuck in the open position, wouldn't slide at all.
I brought it out the the range armorer, (he looked younger than the SBH) and he told me that old timey pistols were out of his lane.

Did a little searching and found this forum. I discovered what that little itsy-bitsy sprung pin on the end of the base pin was for.
I saw how the safety transfer bar would hang up on the firing pin, preventing the hammer cock and cylinder rotation, unless the base pin was locked in.

Head space might be an issue, but it's not a protruding primer (very careful about seating primers) All the parts are the same, so it would be strange to suddenly lose head spacing.

The hang up seems to have occurred when loading the fourth round, which suggested a cylinder misalignment.

Could be case length, I don't trim the case length, but it seemed like it was something about the base pin.

Took it home, ground up an old screwdriver to make it into a forked screwdriver, removed the ejector, base pin, base pin latch, cleaned everything up, put it together and now it seems to load.

When I had everything apart, I realized that the base pin has a ground out half moon on the stop collar. This allows the base pin to slide along the barrel, and keeps the base pin notch lined up to engage the base pin latch. If the base pin was cocked a bit, it would hang up on the barrel and not slide.

I'm writing all this detail for anyone like me who might be having a similar issue.

Not sure if it's solved, but I have a better understanding of how the gun works.

I love the gun, I don't like all the jewelry sized screws, pins, and latches.

 

[harley08]

I was given reloads from a friend and on one of the loads he forgot to put powder in the case. I took a wooden dowel and tapped it in the barrel and was able to remove the cylinder. No more of my friends reloads for me. Thanks for all the help

Only shoot your reloads!
I do not trust all factory ammo either.
A .357 S&W revolver blew up in my hand using .38 special factory ammo!