Graphite dry lube in revolver trigger mechanism
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recumbent
Buckeye
Couldn't hurt.
I use synthetic motor oil.
I use synthetic motor oil.
recumbent said:
I haven't owned a revolver in many years, and just recently bought one. IIRC, I didn't ever lube the trigger mechanism on my previous revolvers (the rest of the revolver, yes.) I've read several articles and viewed several videos on revolver cleaning and lubrication, and there are varying opinions on lubricating the trigger mechanism itself. Some say that oil type lubes attract and retain dirt/grit; others advocate lightly lubricating this area with a variety of products. I just wondered if dry graphite would be an effective product that doesn't attract and retain dirt/grit.
My father was a pretty good pistolsmith and I have a .357 Blackhawk Flattop that he tuned up. After stoning the engagement surfaces and polishing the contact surfaces he degreased it and filled it with graphite and would sit in the evening while watching TV cocking it and lowering the hammer. Then he would clean it out and oil it and test the trigger. I think he did that two or three times. When he had it where he wanted it he cleaned and oiled it. He was using it as lapping compound and was very careful to clean it out when it had done it's job.
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/will-graphite-powder-damage-v-ways-156581/
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/will-graphite-powder-damage-v-ways-156581/
Chuck 100 yd
Hunter
Graphite is a superfine abrasive, probably take a lifetime to show any change in dimensions of any parts that were effected by it.
That said, I use Rem Oil, just a drop in openings like the cylinder latch and pawl
Will migrate into any areas that require lube and keep The parts in fine shape.
A thin synthetic oil like 5w20 Mobile one would be fine also used sparingly.
A quart would last a lifetime.
That said, I use Rem Oil, just a drop in openings like the cylinder latch and pawl
Will migrate into any areas that require lube and keep The parts in fine shape.
A thin synthetic oil like 5w20 Mobile one would be fine also used sparingly.
A quart would last a lifetime.
Graphite is a solid that could accumulate in plunger bores and under small springs, I never tried it but I would vote no on the graphite.
rammerjammer
Blackhawk
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Chuck 100 yd said:
Ditto. I've always just dropped some Remoil in select spots, dry fired it a few times afterwards and called it a day.
Captain America said:
Hmmm...in the articles that I read about it, they said it was available in a superfine powder or a liquid solution. Some even talked about shaving pencil lead into a powder, but others warned that modern pencil lead has both graphite and clay in it, and the clay wasn't good for firearms.
I may have to just try a drop of Weapon Shield...I currently use BreakFree to clean with (I do know it's a CLP) and Weapon Shield as a lube on my semiautos.
Captain America said:
Graphite is used to lubricate locks and it works fine with the small springs and plungers in them.
There are different types of "graphite". Some are abrasive some are not. Graphite is used by the military
From Brownell's:
Lubricates & Reduces Wear; Won't Collect Contaminants
Weapons grade, natural, powdered graphite provides superior lubrication without collecting airborne contaminants. Dry formula will not trap dirt, run off, gum up, or lose its lubricating qualities when subjected to extreme temperatures. A favorite lube for heavy automatic weapons, especially in desert conditions. Slicks triggers and sears, bolt carriers, slides, frames, raceways and more by forming a soft, micro-fine layer of lubricating particles on moving parts. Greatly reduces wear, and helps resist powder and carbon fouling on treated parts. Works equally well for fishing reels, locks, cameras, and other household applications. Make sure parts are completely stripped of all "wet" lubes and greases before applying graphite. Do not apply oils or greases on top of graphite.
David Bradshaw
Blackhawk
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- Sep 11, 2012
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- 933
GKC said:
******
Magnum revolvers subjected to voluminous fire in the days of silhouette showed lubrication is considerably better than no lubrication. Motor oil and moly-disufide chassis grease come with more development than so-called gun oil. Motor oil oxidizes more slowly than many other oils, synthetic motor oil more slowly yet. Thus, synthetic is much less likely to gum. Synthetic has the advantage of not applying the brakes in the North Country. Complete absence of lubrication allows moisture to "weld" steel in sub-zero temperatures. Moly-Disulfide applied in an evaporative medium leaves a dry film, which resists "moisture welding" in hard cold.
Oils which oxidize also seem more troubled by the presence of moisture.
Forget trying to keep lube off engagement surfaces of hammer & trigger. A proper trigger----or proper trigger job----works in the presence of lubrication. Graphite may or may not stick around, but it won't hurt.
David Bradshaw
Bob Wright
Hawkeye
My oil, for preservative and lubricant, has been a 50/50 mix of motor oil and Three-In-One machine oil. This for the past sixty years or so.
A drop or two dropped into the hammer opening of a .44 Magnum is well dispersed after a few rounds have been fired.
Exterior use, I oil the exterior pretty heavily, then wipe the gun down with a dry rag.
Bob Wright
A drop or two dropped into the hammer opening of a .44 Magnum is well dispersed after a few rounds have been fired.
Exterior use, I oil the exterior pretty heavily, then wipe the gun down with a dry rag.
Bob Wright
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