How do you remove the anodizing on the aluminum grip frame and ejector rod housing ?

[tbobcar]

"I didn't know Aluminum could be Parkerized."

Sorry, should have been clearer. The old parkerizing that I was referring to was on an 1903 Springfield rifle.

Surething, but you brought up an interesting point. Some jobshop
machine/surface finishing outfits
years ago, becane fairly good at hard anodizing aluminum and applying a copper plate, then putting a Nickel Iron alloy coat that took Parkerizing fairly well.
So there you go, but to me just put on a coat of blue-black Teflon or polish up the base metal.

 

[Hvymax]

I agree, new electroless Nickel baths provide tough adherent coats. A little used bath popular back in the '70s was a Tin Nickel alloy. It is tougher than Tide, and does not have the yellowish hue.
Again, an electroless bath.
Sn-Ni would be terrific.
I think I'll start a company, naw, who wants to work.

I gave that crap up a few years ago. A friend is expanding his gun shop so I might have to get a few new toys. Will Work for Guns and Ammo.

 

[tbobcar]

I am re-doing the look of a New Model 357 Blackhawk I have. It is a early New Model without all the junk printed on the barrel. I want to remove the anodizing on the grip frame and ejector rod housing. I want to keep all the original parts as much as possible. I no longer have the use of a bead blaster, so can it be done using chemicals of some sort ?

CHEVYINLINE6.

The tips you've been given are pretty good, however, close tolerance fits and threads are easily masked with plugs or
stop-off paint.

Stripping does remove some base metal and the stripped
surface will need polishing before reanodizing. As was noted, the new coat will build up the surface
a few thousanths.
Be prepared to spend a few bucks,
metal finishers are artists as well as technicians.