Recently bought a new 10/22 in stainless and of course Ruger says not to use Locktite when mounting a rail on the rifle, Wrong. Anyone that owns a rifle or pistol knows that without a little blue Locktite on the scope mount it Will work itself way loose. I've always used blue Locktite on all 3 of my 10/22's with no problems. How I have done it is to remove the trigger group and the bolt. Once that's done I spread a little blue Locktite on a paper plate and line up the rail on top of the rifle and then I use a q-tip to spread just a bit of the Locktite from the middle to the top of the mounting screw and then screw it into the frame and once all 4 screws are mounted I torque them down to 15 inch pounds of torque. Lastly I turn the assembly upside down so that if there is any leakage it remains outside the bolt chamber and let everything dry for 24 hours. I've done this with all 3 of my 10/22's and have never had any Locktite in the bolt chamber. Works great and no loose mounting rails.
Mounting the Picatinny or Weaver Rail (To Locktite, YES)
- Thread starter Mylo1899
- Start date
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OK?
I usually apply loktite with a tooth pick.
I usually apply loktite with a tooth pick.
Yep, that works too. My point in writing the post was just to mention the fact that blue Loctite works fine if it's applied correctly. Ruger is firmly against it, don't understand it.
Because way too many idiots either don't know the difference between the red and blue, or are color blind.
When I mounted my rail on my GS, it came with a tiny tube of red loctite. Needless to say I sure as heck didn't use that.
You are of course right, its baffling why the factory would even include the red Loctite with the rail knowing full well there really isn't any valid reason that red Loctite should be used in any firearm application. Once you get into the territory of needing foot pounds of torque on a firearm instead of inch pounds it's either a design flaw or you're attaching a .223 or .308 barrel to the chamber which is usually around 30 foot pounds of torque.
Jeep, most old geezers like us know better than to go near red Loctite but you are right, the majority of people who own firearms don't have a clue of how the firearm actually works which is why there are gunsmiths and in my 52 years of shooting I've only met a handful that I would let work on my guns because a lot of them are just as clueless.
Yeah, I read an online review of a Weaver 10/22 scope mount a couple years ago. The guy wanted to use his torque wrench to tighten the mounting screws, and it seems Weaver didn't provide any recommended values (instructions probably said "hand tight" or something similar). So, the guy apparently ended up using some recommended values from a different manufacturer, for a different mount, on a different rifle (with a steel receiver). Fortunately for him, the Weaver mounting screws stripped, which prompted his '1 Star' review claiming Weaver mounts were crap. I guess if the threaded holes in the aluminum 10/22 receiver had stripped before the mounting screws, he would be running around claiming Ruger rifles were crap.
There are idiots everywhere, and being idiots, they often don't realize how lucky they are!
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contender
Ruger Guru
Not to start an argument,, but I've not had to use any loctite of any kind on scope bases or rings. And I shoot some stuff with serious recoil.
I do make sure I have a good fit of the base to the firearm. I do mount a scope using proper tools to align the rings & lap them if necessary. And I use a proper torque wrench with the correct values as provided by the makers of the rings & bases.
If you can shoot a .454 Casull, or a .480 Ruger, or whatever a lot,, and never have scopes get loose,, then why add something else to the process?
I will say that if I'm planning a serious trip,, I double check the torque on my screws. Haven't had any issues.
I do make sure I have a good fit of the base to the firearm. I do mount a scope using proper tools to align the rings & lap them if necessary. And I use a proper torque wrench with the correct values as provided by the makers of the rings & bases.
If you can shoot a .454 Casull, or a .480 Ruger, or whatever a lot,, and never have scopes get loose,, then why add something else to the process?
I will say that if I'm planning a serious trip,, I double check the torque on my screws. Haven't had any issues.
I don't doubt your experience with out using Loctite but if you're hunting any animal and you're using a cannon like a .454 Casull or a .480 Ruger you yourself said you check to make sure your mounts are tight. From my experience there would be no way I would mount any scope without the blue Loctite just for the simple fact that after 52 years of shooting with rifles and knowing that just torquing the mount or whatever scope rings you use they Will come loose which is fine if you're not hunting but if they do loosen up while some 400 to 600 pound game is coming at you you may wish you did use the blue Loctite and then it's of course too late. Of course, to each his own. The nice thing about using Loctite is once you've set it when setting up your scope you Never have to worry about the scope again and I've seen lots more handgun and rifle parts come off just at the range. As I mentioned in an earlier post, 80% of shooters whether it's handgun or rifle don't have a clue how the weapon they shoot actually functions from a purely mechanical standpoint and to me, that's damn scary. If you add that to the reality that most shooters only shoot every few months than in the end you've got lots of folks that own self defense weapons that are more or less inept if the fit hits the sham and their lives depend on their non existent shooting skills. Personally I go to the range every week because in my own experience if I don't then should the time ever come that I need to call on my abilities they're sharp enough to stop the threat. Lastly I only shoot a 9mm 1911 and I heard it said that my 9mm really isn't enough to get the job done especially because I live in a libbie state but my retort is always the same. I will be able to make a kill shot 90% of the time because I practice every week so the guys that have .357 or .45acp IMO are at a big disadvantage because they practice once a month or every other month. Also because my 9mm FMJ ammo is only around $15 a box of 50 whereas the larger caliber's cost double or more what I pay. The way I was taught to shoot is practice, practice and more practice. Again, to each his own.
Papalote
Single-Sixer
I'll go along with contender. I have mounted scopes on all kinds of rifles and pistols over the last 50 years. 22 up to 500 S&W on pistols. And up to 585 Nyati and 50 Browning. Never used any kind of locktite. I have removed some mounts that wannabes put on and had to apply some heat to get the screws loose. Install mounts and torque the screws right the first time
contender
Ruger Guru
I agree with a lot of what you say.
I own a gun range. I shoot a lot more than most shooters. I also shoot USPSA competition. And actually hunting,, most of the time,, it's one of 3 different calibers. 7x30 Waters in a Contender, a few different .45 Colts, and a .357 Maximum.
The Contender is scoped, as are a couple of my .45's.
The last (2) times I was prepping for an elk hunt,, I shot almost daily for months,, burning through over 3000 rounds each time,, in .45 Colt. My .454 was loaded to equate my .45 Colt. Both guns daily.
The scoped ones,, even though they had zero issues,, I took the scopes off about 2 weeks prior to the hunts,, and made sure the bases were still tight, (they were,) re-mounted the scopes, and re-zeroed them. But one thing I do before I do any of this,, is using my torque wrench,, I checked the screws prior to removal. Just to see if there was any "loose" screws. None.
I'm NOT against folks using the proper loctite,, and if they feel better for using it,, that's perfectly fine. But it's not a thing I would consider mandatory in scope (or red dot) mounts. Your statement; "Anyone that owns a rifle or pistol knows that without a little blue Locktite on the scope mount it Will work itself way loose." is what I wanted to address.
Your wording made it appear that everyone who has any level of skill has that kind of problem to where loctite is a mandatory thing.
My skills are well above the average, casual gun owner,, and have not had issues. The biggest thing is doing a PROPER scope mounting procedure.
I just finished 2 different rifle scope mounting for 2 different guys in the last week & a half. Never used any loctite. And I can say that one guy will take pretty good care of his gun,, while the other guy will likely be a bit less careful or such. But I can say that the less than good guy,, has been bringing me his guns for scope mounting & zeroing for over 40 years.
It's your wording that I hope to address in a manner to assure that not everyone needs loctite.
I own a gun range. I shoot a lot more than most shooters. I also shoot USPSA competition. And actually hunting,, most of the time,, it's one of 3 different calibers. 7x30 Waters in a Contender, a few different .45 Colts, and a .357 Maximum.
The Contender is scoped, as are a couple of my .45's.
The last (2) times I was prepping for an elk hunt,, I shot almost daily for months,, burning through over 3000 rounds each time,, in .45 Colt. My .454 was loaded to equate my .45 Colt. Both guns daily.
The scoped ones,, even though they had zero issues,, I took the scopes off about 2 weeks prior to the hunts,, and made sure the bases were still tight, (they were,) re-mounted the scopes, and re-zeroed them. But one thing I do before I do any of this,, is using my torque wrench,, I checked the screws prior to removal. Just to see if there was any "loose" screws. None.
I'm NOT against folks using the proper loctite,, and if they feel better for using it,, that's perfectly fine. But it's not a thing I would consider mandatory in scope (or red dot) mounts. Your statement; "Anyone that owns a rifle or pistol knows that without a little blue Locktite on the scope mount it Will work itself way loose." is what I wanted to address.
Your wording made it appear that everyone who has any level of skill has that kind of problem to where loctite is a mandatory thing.
My skills are well above the average, casual gun owner,, and have not had issues. The biggest thing is doing a PROPER scope mounting procedure.
I just finished 2 different rifle scope mounting for 2 different guys in the last week & a half. Never used any loctite. And I can say that one guy will take pretty good care of his gun,, while the other guy will likely be a bit less careful or such. But I can say that the less than good guy,, has been bringing me his guns for scope mounting & zeroing for over 40 years.
It's your wording that I hope to address in a manner to assure that not everyone needs loctite.
If you really want to get serious, use stud and bearing retainer.
For whatever it's worth, the best way to help remove Loctite is using ladies nail polish remover and it doesn't remove any of the paint or discolor the stainless steel and I suppose you can use a hairdryer with it but it is flammable stuff.
"For whatever it's worth, the best way to help remove Loctite is using ladies nail polish remover and it doesn't remove any of the paint or discolor the stainless steel and I suppose you can use a hairdryer with it but it is flammable stuff."
Hot soldering iron for about 15 seconds works, too.
Hot soldering iron for about 15 seconds works, too.
contender
Ruger Guru
"the best way to help remove Loctite is using ladies nail polish remover and it doesn't remove any of the paint or discolor the stainless steel'
But depending upon the firearm,, it can affect the finish of a blued firearm. Acetone (fingernail polish remover) can discolor some blued guns.
My main point,, in ALL of my info is that loctite is NOT necessary in ALL applications of mounting scope bases or rings.
But depending upon the firearm,, it can affect the finish of a blued firearm. Acetone (fingernail polish remover) can discolor some blued guns.
My main point,, in ALL of my info is that loctite is NOT necessary in ALL applications of mounting scope bases or rings.
It's always an owner choice, to each his own.
RC44Mag
Buckeye
For small screws like scope ring screws and even picatinny mounts, rails and such Purple Loctite is the stuff to use, it's what it's made for. It prevents screws from backing out due to vibration, impact and whatnot but is easily removed with little effort using properly sized drivers. It won't remove threads and no heat needed, nor breaker bars!
Not as easy to find as the red or blue versions but available. I usually buy it from midway or other online gun sites. The right stuff for firearms and fishing tackle. I've seen too many screws come loose and parts drop off at ranges with people who don't use anything.
Not as easy to find as the red or blue versions but available. I usually buy it from midway or other online gun sites. The right stuff for firearms and fishing tackle. I've seen too many screws come loose and parts drop off at ranges with people who don't use anything.
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